Lapland 2001: An Autumn Odyssey

In the autumn of 2001, I trekked along with two friends into the wilds of North Eastern Finland in the Kemi-Sompio and Saariselkä wilderness areas which are part of the Urho Kekkonen National Park, also called Kolliskaira.

Having driven from Helsinki, on Friday 7th September we drove from Kilpijarvi, through Savukoski, Martti, Tulppio, and on to Kemiharra. The drive was slow south of Kemihaara as reindeer herds appeared from nowhere, often crossing the road directly to our front.  During eight days in the Artic Circle we saw Lapland's trees and vegetation display colorful "ruska" in a most majestic splendor.  Although we saw a number of birds including the "kuukkeli", we didn't see any of the 20 or so bears which are reported to inhabit the park.  However during our trek three bear hunters were working in the same area, and we even met one!

For refreshments, we drank ice cold water that flowed from mountain springs, often cascading down small waterfalls, aerated by nature, and priceless! 

Day 1, Fri 8 Sep 01. Trekked from Kemihaara car park North to Manta-oja "reindeermans hut", stayed overnight. Day 2, Sat 8 Sep 01. Trekked North-West to Peuraselka along a well marked trail. Stayed in hut overnight. Day 3, Sun 9 Sep 01. Crossed the river Jaurujoki, then trekked West along the river bank to Tahvontupa for sauna and overnight in hut. Day 4, Mon 10 Sep 01. Trekked North along a mountain stream, making a base camp about 4km South East of Vongoiva fell. Camped overnight. Day 5, Tue 11 Sep 01. Trekked West to fell 554 then North to Vongoiva. Returned to base camp. Camped overnight. Day 6, Wed 12 Sep 01. Trekked South East over the Pirravatselma fell and viewed Talkkunapaa and fells beyond in Russia.  Continued on to Peuraselka & a night river crossing of Jaurujoki. Stayed in hut overnight. Day 7, Thu 13 Sep 01. Trekked South-East to Manta-oja hut and stayed overnight. Day 8, Fri 14 Sep 01. Trekked South to Kemihaara.  We drove to Savukoski, had a long sauna and learned that the world had changed quite a lot in one week.